Japanese SOLARO fabric
made in Italy with Japanese fabric
The Solaro, developed by the London School of Hygiene & Tropical Medicine, is at first a technical fabric, designed to protect its wearer from ultraviolet rays. It is invented in 1907 by Louis Westenra Sambonn, an oncologist specialised in tropical diseases. After the Second World War, because of the shortage of raw materials, Italian tailors recovered military stock, contributing to its expansion beyond the British Empire. In the 50s and 60s, the Solaro, breathable and wrinkle-resistant, is seen as a special cloth for men.
The one-piece collar is cut from a single piece of cloth that extends through the front torso and doubles as a placket. This allows the collar to stand on its own, because of the support of how the fabric is cut and sown.
The one-piece collar is harder to make than a regular collar, which requires a skilled pattern cutter to be able to get the right look and function of the collar. The cloth needs to be cut with precision and the right curvature so that it gets the right look.